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Available under a Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike 4.0 International Licence


Social sciences


Food and drink are fundamental to life, and apart from costume, they are among the most noticeable markers of cultural otherness within intercultural encounters.1 There is a current global interest in foods that are artisanal, local, traditional, seasonal and sustainable, and that tell a cultural story, as witnessed by the popularity of the Nordic Food Movement, or the 2021 Netflix series High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America.2 In 2019, the Royal Irish Academy published A History of Ireland in 100 Words, which had a special chapter on ‘Food and Feasting’ highlighting the importance of bread, milk, apples, and honey as iconic Irish foods, and including drinking horns, forks, cauldrons, and the champion’s portion ‘curadhmhír’ as other important cultural elements within Ireland’s history.3 Food history has been gaining momentum globally for over half a century. In an Irish context, it has been sixty years since A.T. Lucas’s seminal paper ‘Irish food before the potato’ was published in this very journal.4 Other individual researchers on Irish food history, traditions and customs included Kevin Danaher, Fergus Kelly, Louis Cullen, Bríd Mahon, and more recently Finbar McCormick, Katherine Simms and Patricia Lysaght.


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